Saturday, 31 March 2012

Why concealer is the number one 'go to' product in my make up bag

It's obvious why I love my concealer; it fits me like a glove, it never lets me down and I feel better once I've used it ( I can't say that about many things in my life!)

I've already written about how to apply concealer in "Dark circles under your eyes?" however concealer isn't just for use around the eyes. I also use concealer to even out patches around the nose, lips and ad hoc dark spots and blemishes.

Every make up artist has their own rules on using concealer, mine is that I always apply some before foundation. The main reason for that is that I like to correct skin first. I then have a good idea what foundation and how much I need, sometimes you may even find foundation isn't needed at all, just a little powder to set everything.

Here's a few tips when applying concealer:

Tip 1: Always moisturise the face and under eye area before applying make up
Tip 2. Wear a primer to even out skin colour and tone and improve the longevity of your make up
Tip 3: Use a very small brush to dot the concealer on to the discoloured area. Use the pad of your little finger to warm and distribute the concealer once on your face. Remember less is more!

...and here's just a selection of great concealers on the High Street:


Laura Mercier Secret Concealer £18
This is a rich creamy concealer packed with pigment. There are 6 really useful colours to choose from and as the pigments are so strong a little goes a very long way.




Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer £17
There are 9 fab yellow based colours in this range. Like it says on the tin, this is a creamy concealer that does a great job and this one is said to be infused with skin conditioners to protect the under-eye area. 






Estee Lauder Smoothing Creme Concealer £17
This is a lovely concealer, it's also light diffusing and has a sunscreen SPF8 and vitamin. 



Aldi Lacura Concealer Pen £3.59
Having heard about this concealer I thought I better give it a go. Taking it's price tag into account I wasn't really expecting a great product but price tag aside, it's really very good. This concealer has a fair amount of pigment and good coverage and on a non foundation day this works well alone set with a little translucent powder. My only issues are there aren't enough colours in the range and as it's quite a small it gets used up very quickly. 




Saturday, 24 March 2012

NEWSFLASH! STOP PRESS! HOLD THE PAGE! The Sun is back!

After months and months of grey wintry weather, the sun is out and looks like it's sticking around for a while so make sure you factor up your face!

Whether it's a sun block or a moisturiser - I prefer a moisturiser with a high-ish factor / UVA/ UVB sunscreens, it's the first step for skin defence.

I know we all long for those first rays of Spring sun to stream through the trees and we all rush out to the park to lap them up but don't forget that the sun is damaging and is at it's most dangerous when we're not really paying attention.

Over the sun starved winter we forget all about factors and UV ratings we're so desperate for the warmth of the sun on our faces but alas, if left unprotected the sun can cause irreversible damage that amongst other things can lead to wrinkles, sun spots and dehydration. Just consider this a little reminder, a soft nudge in the ribs to get you thinking and forewarned is forearmed. So here's a few worth trying that are easy to find on your high street.

Clinique Superdefense SPF25 £35
This super Superdefense moisturiser is a Clinique classic. I love it. It has a lovely silky texture that slicks over the skin and leaves it feeling soft and slightly dewy. The high SPF factor is a big plus. This is a moisturiser that really works, wear it every day even through the winter.





Origins A Perfect World SPF 25 £32
Another wonderful product from Origins. This is a light weight moisturiser with active ingredient Silver Tip White Tea and Vitamin C. If you have very dry skin you might find that this moisturiser isn't quite enough but Origins has a number of great products and nearly all their daily moisturisers have an SPF and smell great.




Neal's Yard Wild Rose Daily Moisture SPF 30 £24
This one nourishes and protects with "100% mineral sun filter, antioxidant-rich wild rosehip oil and milk thistle to defend skin against ageing UV damage" This product also happens to be the first sun screen to be certified by the Soil Association. It's rich and creamy and smells divine. I love Neal's Yard Rose skin care range.


For more information on UVB/UVA effects on the skin visit http://nhslocal.nhs.uk/my-health/conditions/s/sunburn/causes




Tuesday, 20 March 2012

why use an oil based cleanser?

Like most people of my age, regardless of gender, I grew up reading magazines and watching TV ads hailing the use of harsh detergent based solutions and weekly lacerating facial scrubs to banish the demon oil from my already inflamed face.

As I left puberty and became a woman, to save my face from the dreaded TZone I was introduced to the sacred "Cleanse" "Tone" and "Moisturise" method of make up removal and skin care.

Luckily for me about 10 years ago a loved one bought me a bottle of Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil. From that day on I've never looked back.

I know most people find it hard to believe that an oil based cleanser is the answer to soft, clean healthy skin as it just goes against all we've been taught, but it really is.  The scientific explanation in very simple terms is that oil attracts oil.  Therefore by applying oil to the face, on washing it away it takes with it all the dirt and grime and make up of that day. The skin is left soft and benefiting from the moisturising effects of the nourishing oils.

Whereas detergent based cleansers strip the skin of natural oils, which in turn encourages the skin to produce more oils and the cycle continues!

Maybe because I've grown up washing my face I don't always feel properly clean unless I've felt water against my skin. Oil based cleansers satisfy that psychological need for 'a wash' as they require a splash of water to break down the oil, turning it into a soft and gentle lather to be rinsed away.  I have also started to use a clean cloth to help remove any residue so I get a gentle facial rub while I'm at it.

There are suddenly lots of oil based cleansers on the market and they all seem to do the same job but the ingredients do vary so it's always worth reading the label before use. They may seem more expensive at first but considering that each application is about the size of a pea, they do work out good value for money over all.

Here are some worth checking out:


Shu Uemura High Performance Balancing and Cleansing oil £ 28 - 56.50
They claim their secret is" protecting the skin's delicate moisture balance while removing make up and impurities in a single step. Blending rich botanical oils, including avocado and jojoba, with natural phyto ingredients, cleansing oils are formulated in six varieties for perfect, gentle cleansing specific to skin's daily needs. Gentle thorough cleansing"

To date this is my number one favourite oil based cleanser. I like the consistency, it's thinner than some of the others and it's very effective at removing make up. I have the pleasure of removing every last bit  of waterproof mascara without rubbing my eyes until they are raw.






Origins Clean Energy Gentle Cleansing oil £ 17
Origins oil includes sunflower,  safflower and sesame oil and does a great job. I'm a big fan of Origins and as with all their products this oil smells wonderful.  My only complaint is regarding the large neck of the bottle. It's just too wide and this makes it difficult to pour a small amount out without it dribbling down the sides. It's messy and wasteful. I advise adding your own pump dispenser. Hopefully origins will get the message and redesign with a pump of their own!






Virgin Vie Cleansing oil £11.50
This is a great value oil that does the job. I found it doesn't wash off quite as easily as Shu Uemura but it's a good all rounder on a budget.



DHC Deep Cleansing oil £3.50-£30.00
This is a great cleansing oil with an olive oil and vitamin E base, it comes in various sizes, including a small bottle that's great for travelling.


If you want more information on using oil to cleanse skin you can read more at: /http://www.theoilcleansingmethod.com/

Friday, 16 March 2012

Dark circles under your eyes?

Thank you Elliot for asking a great question! 


Before you consider covering up your dark circles it's probably worth pondering for a moment why you have them and if there's anything you can do to help the situation.

There are whole bunch of possible reasons why you have dark circles under your eyes (not being medically trained I'll just stick to some of the non life threatening reasons!) If you ask most people (usually mums) they'll tell you it's down to late nights,  lack of fluids or staring at computer screens or game consoles for hours on end.  Sound familiar?  However it could also be due to allergies irritating the eyes and making you rub them, nasal congestion and sinus pain or skin problems like eczema. I have also read that for some people it's down to a lack of certain vitamins or iron deficiency.

The most common reason for dark circles is ageing. The area around your eyes is very sensitive and as you age the fat pad and skin under your eye gets thinner which means the blood vessels under you eyes become more noticeable. Something else to consider is the tone of your skin sometimes it just comes down to genetics, dark circles can run in the family!

There are a number of products on the market for men and women that boast the ability to hydrate the skin around the eye therefore diminishing the look of dark circles and puffiness. I can't really recommend a product as I've not found one I can say really works. Under eye gels or creams are usually cool and are therefore soothing but I'm not in favour of loading the eye area with too much product because as a contact lenses wearer I'm very aware of how products can work their way into the eye.  In fact this is especially true at night and that in it's self can create puffiness or irritation.

For a more natural approach I favour applying either cucumber slices, almond oil, chamomile teabags (leave in the fridge for 15 min before use, to cool) or witch-hazel neat on to a cotton pad, leave on the eyes 10 mins whilst taking a good old fashioned rest. (Stress is also considered a trigger for dark circles)

When it comes to covering up dark circles, there's only one thing for it and that's concealer!   First moisturise the skin but please, not too close to the eye otherwise you risk the moisturiser entering the eye. Then use a light covering of primer this will help to smooth the area and will ensure your make up stays on longer.

Now you need to apply the concealer. The best way to add concealer around the eye is with a small brush and a little finger. Pat the make up on to the area and use your little finger to warm the product up and even out the distribution.  It's very important that you add only very small amounts of product and if necessary layer as needed. Dot the concealer on rather than drag the brush along the dark area as this will just help to accentuate the problem. Make sure you blend out edges for a more natural look. I suggest you set the concealer with a very fine covering of the finest powder you can find and if in doubt go for translucent every time.

The colour and density of the concealer you use is very important. It needs to be rich in pigment but not too heavy.  The colour should correct the area by bringing it up to the same tone as the surrounding skin.

I advise you to don the mantra  'Less is more' when working under the eye to keep it looking as natural as possible. It may take a few attempts to get the look you want but like most things it's all about practice.

Always be sure to clean any make up off before you go to bed. Be kind to your skin, don't be tempted to pull the under eye area when cleaning. Be gentle and use an oil based eye make up remover for best results.

I promise to post some pages on 'concealers' and 'oil based make up removers' that work, very soon.

I hope I've answered your question?